Hideaki Shikama: World of Discordance
The cult Japanese brand Children of the Discordance seeks to unify streetwear as high fashion continues to move away from the aesthetic
September 13, 2024
Interviewed by Ali Khan | Co-Founder
Photo (above): Courtesy of Hideaki Shikama.
PARIS—It’s menswear fashion week and amongst the buzz of
countless fashion events (not to mention the Euro cup and the pre-Olympics
street parties) a poster on the wall catches our attention. Children of the Discordance,
the much sought after Japanese brand, is holding a showroom for their spring/summer
2025 menswear collection.
Established in 2011 with a strong connection to the
underground music scene of Tokyo, Children of the Discordance is somewhat of an
enigma. Having been around long enough to be an established player on the Tokyo
fashion scene, yet still not part of the mainstream fashion language.
Unlike a lot of young designers out of Japan following the
likes of the great Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto, Hideaki Shikama has walked
to the beat of his own drum, finding his cues instead in the codes of youth
street culture that have been developed by the likes of Jun Takahashi, Nigo,
and Hiroshi Fujiwara. But at a time when hype culture is dying down and high
fashion continues its move away from the skateboard inspired street culture of
last decade (not to mention Nigo experiencing serious growing pains at Kenzo
and Jun Takahashi ready to scale back his business in these difficult economic
times), it’s Children of the Discordance, that, refreshingly, is taking on a
role of harmonizing the streetwear aesthetics into a long-lasting language that
can live on beyond hype culture.
“I wanted to express the authentic Children of the Discordance mood that is closer to my own personality and hence better allows you to feel insights into our daily lives.”
The pain is global. Just within the last 4 years, Supreme
(the proverbial ‘Godfather’ of all things street and hype) has been sold twice
and still languishes in irrelevancy. Others like Palace, Off-white, Bathing Ape
are not faring much better either. Children of the Discordance, with its
comparatively smaller size along with the cachet of ‘Cool Japan’ makes it
better positioned to overcome these challenges.
As I interviewed Shikama, I immediately asked about the
decision to not put on a runway show in Paris. “I wanted to express the
authentic Children of the Discordance mood that is closer to my own personality
and hence better allows you to feel insights into our daily lives.” It’s true,
while the spectacle of fashion show may project glamour, all serious brands
know the true value of a strong community and a showroom to facilitate exchanges
with friends, press, and buyers. And ultimately, it’s there, where the deals are
made and orders are placed.
Thus, it makes sense that the current collection titled,
“Nothing Usual,” brings the focus back on commonplace elements and the familiar
ethos of the brand, potentially a source of comfort in these times of extreme
economic and political uncertainty.
This, of course, includes the brand’s ongoing relationship
to music that Shikama describes “as indispensable to me as water. Music has
been around me for as long as I can remember and it continues to be to this day.”
He goes on to describe his favorite slang word, “rhythmatic,” and it’s not
difficult to see the affinity. The same word is an apt descriptor for the progression
of Children of the Discordance over the years.
Growing up, Shikama’s interest in clothes and street skating
have been equally obsessive as his passion for music, but “It was when I was 24
years old that I decided to quit my music career and focus on fashion seriously
as a career.” In line with the traditions of the streetwear genre, various
influences that culminate in a distinct lifestyle characterize the language of Children
of the Discordance.
And as much as these interests define the visual language of
the brand, a special role model defines Hideaki Shikama as a person. His
father, “an architect, who taught me how to draw, was the biggest influence on
me. Actually, my love for fashion and music are also influenced by my father to
a large extent,” he states proudly.
Fourteen years into the business, the importance of critical
next steps and their timing for success in the coming decades is not lost on Shikama.
For the brand’s future plans, he draws on the past, acknowledging the history
but clear as to where the future lies. “In Tokyo, seniors such as Hiroshi
Fujiwara, Nigo, and Jun Takahashi worked together in the ‘90s in creating a
street culture. I sincerely thank them for their work. But can Tokyo be the
center of Asia? It may be true right now; I can’t say if it will be the case 10
or 20 years from now. The fashion sensibilities are mature and well developed
in Tokyo and rooted in culture, so that is a huge advantage. But doing business
worldwide is greatly important now and it is the designer’s role to create new
bridges between global cultures that [in turn] create a new fashion language.”
And for that Shikama relies on what he knows best – music
collaborations. The connection between music and clothes within the realm of
streetwear is well documented and since its inception, Children of the
Discordance has had a rich heritage of collaborating with the Japanese
underground music scene. For the upcoming season, it was the band, Minna-no-Kimochi,
that, according to designer, was a natural choice due to their unique world
view that aligned perfectly with the Children of the Discordance ethos.
Although most previous collaborations have leaned towards hip-hop, it was a
pleasant surprise to see new synergies being formed and as Shikama admitted
himself, “I think many people were surprised! They have this image that Shikama
equals hip-hop. So, a lot people have asked me about it.”
Collaborations are still very important, Shikama points out,
“they can come in a lot of different ways, and allow us to create new products,
especially if it is something we can’t express properly based on our background
but timing is crucial.” The Children of the Discordance latest collaboration
with sportswear brand Umbro extends the brand’s ethos of incorporating vintage
clothes into his designs to create new silhouettes, layered graphic prints and
textures that stay true to the discordance that the brand so vehemently adheres
to, as well as sets itself apart from your regular streetwear brands like
Stussy, Fear of God, etc.
The pain is global. Just within the last 4 years, Supreme
(the proverbial ‘Godfather’ of all things street and hype) has been sold twice
and still languishes in irrelevancy. Others like Palace, Off-white, Bathing Ape
are not faring much better either. Children of the Discordance, with its
comparatively smaller size along with the cachet of ‘Cool Japan’ makes it
better positioned to overcome these challenges.
As I interviewed Shikama, I immediately asked about the decision to not put on a runway show in Paris. “I wanted to express the authentic Children of the Discordance mood that is closer to my own personality and hence better allows you to feel insights into our daily lives.” It’s true, while the spectacle of fashion show may project glamour, all serious brands know the true value of a strong community and a showroom to facilitate exchanges with friends, press, and buyers. And ultimately, it’s there, where the deals are made and orders are placed.
Thus, it makes sense that the current collection titled, “Nothing Usual,” brings the focus back on commonplace elements and the familiar ethos of the brand, potentially a source of comfort in these times of extreme economic and political uncertainty.
This, of course, includes the brand’s ongoing relationship to music that Shikama describes “as indispensable to me as water. Music has been around me for as long as I can remember and it continues to be to this day.” He goes on to describe his favorite slang word, “rhythmatic,” and it’s not difficult to see the affinity. The same word is an apt descriptor for the progression of Children of the Discordance over the years.
Growing up, Shikama’s interest in clothes and street skating have been equally obsessive as his passion for music, but “It was when I was 24 years old that I decided to quit my music career and focus on fashion seriously as a career.” In line with the traditions of the streetwear genre, various influences that culminate in a distinct lifestyle characterize the language of Children of the Discordance.
And as much as these interests define the visual language of the brand, a special role model defines Hideaki Shikama as a person. His father, “an architect, who taught me how to draw, was the biggest influence on me. Actually, my love for fashion and music are also influenced by my father to a large extent,” he states proudly.
Fourteen years into the business, the importance of critical next steps and their timing for success in the coming decades is not lost on Shikama. For the brand’s future plans, he draws on the past, acknowledging the history but clear as to where the future lies. “In Tokyo, seniors such as Hiroshi Fujiwara, Nigo, and Jun Takahashi worked together in the ‘90s in creating a street culture. I sincerely thank them for their work. But can Tokyo be the center of Asia? It may be true right now; I can’t say if it will be the case 10 or 20 years from now. The fashion sensibilities are mature and well developed in Tokyo and rooted in culture, so that is a huge advantage. But doing business worldwide is greatly important now and it is the designer’s role to create new bridges between global cultures that [in turn] create a new fashion language.”
And for that Shikama relies on what he knows best – music collaborations. The connection between music and clothes within the realm of streetwear is well documented and since its inception, Children of the Discordance has had a rich heritage of collaborating with the Japanese underground music scene. For the upcoming season, it was the band, Minna-no-Kimochi, that, according to designer, was a natural choice due to their unique world view that aligned perfectly with the Children of the Discordance ethos. Although most previous collaborations have leaned towards hip-hop, it was a pleasant surprise to see new synergies being formed and as Shikama admitted himself, “I think many people were surprised! They have this image that Shikama equals hip-hop. So, a lot people have asked me about it.”
Collaborations are still very important, Shikama points out, “they can come in a lot of different ways, and allow us to create new products, especially if it is something we can’t express properly based on our background but timing is crucial.” The Children of the Discordance latest collaboration with sportswear brand Umbro extends the brand’s ethos of incorporating vintage clothes into his designs to create new silhouettes, layered graphic prints and textures that stay true to the discordance that the brand so vehemently adheres to, as well as sets itself apart from your regular streetwear brands like Stussy, Fear of God, etc.
As I interviewed Shikama, I immediately asked about the decision to not put on a runway show in Paris. “I wanted to express the authentic Children of the Discordance mood that is closer to my own personality and hence better allows you to feel insights into our daily lives.” It’s true, while the spectacle of fashion show may project glamour, all serious brands know the true value of a strong community and a showroom to facilitate exchanges with friends, press, and buyers. And ultimately, it’s there, where the deals are made and orders are placed.
Thus, it makes sense that the current collection titled, “Nothing Usual,” brings the focus back on commonplace elements and the familiar ethos of the brand, potentially a source of comfort in these times of extreme economic and political uncertainty.
This, of course, includes the brand’s ongoing relationship to music that Shikama describes “as indispensable to me as water. Music has been around me for as long as I can remember and it continues to be to this day.” He goes on to describe his favorite slang word, “rhythmatic,” and it’s not difficult to see the affinity. The same word is an apt descriptor for the progression of Children of the Discordance over the years.
Growing up, Shikama’s interest in clothes and street skating have been equally obsessive as his passion for music, but “It was when I was 24 years old that I decided to quit my music career and focus on fashion seriously as a career.” In line with the traditions of the streetwear genre, various influences that culminate in a distinct lifestyle characterize the language of Children of the Discordance.
And as much as these interests define the visual language of the brand, a special role model defines Hideaki Shikama as a person. His father, “an architect, who taught me how to draw, was the biggest influence on me. Actually, my love for fashion and music are also influenced by my father to a large extent,” he states proudly.
Fourteen years into the business, the importance of critical next steps and their timing for success in the coming decades is not lost on Shikama. For the brand’s future plans, he draws on the past, acknowledging the history but clear as to where the future lies. “In Tokyo, seniors such as Hiroshi Fujiwara, Nigo, and Jun Takahashi worked together in the ‘90s in creating a street culture. I sincerely thank them for their work. But can Tokyo be the center of Asia? It may be true right now; I can’t say if it will be the case 10 or 20 years from now. The fashion sensibilities are mature and well developed in Tokyo and rooted in culture, so that is a huge advantage. But doing business worldwide is greatly important now and it is the designer’s role to create new bridges between global cultures that [in turn] create a new fashion language.”
And for that Shikama relies on what he knows best – music collaborations. The connection between music and clothes within the realm of streetwear is well documented and since its inception, Children of the Discordance has had a rich heritage of collaborating with the Japanese underground music scene. For the upcoming season, it was the band, Minna-no-Kimochi, that, according to designer, was a natural choice due to their unique world view that aligned perfectly with the Children of the Discordance ethos. Although most previous collaborations have leaned towards hip-hop, it was a pleasant surprise to see new synergies being formed and as Shikama admitted himself, “I think many people were surprised! They have this image that Shikama equals hip-hop. So, a lot people have asked me about it.”
Collaborations are still very important, Shikama points out, “they can come in a lot of different ways, and allow us to create new products, especially if it is something we can’t express properly based on our background but timing is crucial.” The Children of the Discordance latest collaboration with sportswear brand Umbro extends the brand’s ethos of incorporating vintage clothes into his designs to create new silhouettes, layered graphic prints and textures that stay true to the discordance that the brand so vehemently adheres to, as well as sets itself apart from your regular streetwear brands like Stussy, Fear of God, etc.
“I think many people were surprised! They have this image that Shikama equals hip-hop. So, a lot of people have asked me about it.”
As a critic of social media, Le Fool struggles to balance
the use of platforms while keeping its potentially harmful impact in mind. Coincidentally
Shikama’s take on it was similar. “I live my life without much exposure to it,”
he explains, “however for the brand we have to make use of it, so I feel this
contradiction consistently.”
The reality of geo-politics is not lost on Shikama either. Even
in his most diplomatic tone, he couldn’t help but be saddened by the conflicts
around the world and the suffering it causes, “the ordinary people who live in
conflict zones have not done anything wrong” he bluntly states. As a person operating
a business that employs others, he can’t help but express the effect it has had
on the cost of raw materials and product pricing, adding to the complexities of
doing business globally. Shikama, though, is also unwavering in his commitment
to a global future for the brand. “I will move my presentation overseas within
the next few years. We are currently preparing for it” he says, not specifying
if it will be Paris, Milan or another city but clear that “it’s an opportunity
for a lot more people to see the brand. Brands and artists should always find
spaces to grow and strive to create new fashion cultures because that is truly
what our role is.” The streetwear market can certainly take some cues from
Shikama’s prerogative, as most of them have been lacking the will to take risks
and innovate, relying too often on tried and tested old ideas, and if there’s
anything fashion despises, it’s a commercial repeat.
Can Hideaki Shikama save streetwear by taking risks and
paving the path forward for other skateboard brands to follow? Only time will
tell but we can be sure he will give it his best shot, with the same devotion
through which he has been able to bring Children of the Discordance this far. As
we wrap up the interview, we ask him about the what is new on the Tokyo
creative scene, if there is someone who has impressed him recently. Shikama is
quick to remind us not to get consumed in fashion only and engage in the
amazing culinary scene of Tokyo – “I would love for you to experience other
parts of culture as well.” Perhaps fashion and food collaborations can come to
the fore in the future---if the timing is right!
As a critic of social media, Le Fool struggles to balance
the use of platforms while keeping its potentially harmful impact in mind. Coincidentally
Shikama’s take on it was similar. “I live my life without much exposure to it,”
he explains, “however for the brand we have to make use of it, so I feel this
contradiction consistently.”
The reality of geo-politics is not lost on Shikama either. Even in his most diplomatic tone, he couldn’t help but be saddened by the conflicts around the world and the suffering it causes, “the ordinary people who live in conflict zones have not done anything wrong” he bluntly states. As a person operating a business that employs others, he can’t help but express the effect it has had on the cost of raw materials and product pricing, adding to the complexities of doing business globally. Shikama, though, is also unwavering in his commitment to a global future for the brand. “I will move my presentation overseas within the next few years. We are currently preparing for it” he says, not specifying if it will be Paris, Milan or another city but clear that “it’s an opportunity for a lot more people to see the brand. Brands and artists should always find spaces to grow and strive to create new fashion cultures because that is truly what our role is.” The streetwear market can certainly take some cues from Shikama’s prerogative, as most of them have been lacking the will to take risks and innovate, relying too often on tried and tested old ideas, and if there’s anything fashion despises, it’s a commercial repeat.
Can Hideaki Shikama save streetwear by taking risks and paving the path forward for other skateboard brands to follow? Only time will tell but we can be sure he will give it his best shot, with the same devotion through which he has been able to bring Children of the Discordance this far. As we wrap up the interview, we ask him about the what is new on the Tokyo creative scene, if there is someone who has impressed him recently. Shikama is quick to remind us not to get consumed in fashion only and engage in the amazing culinary scene of Tokyo – “I would love for you to experience other parts of culture as well.” Perhaps fashion and food collaborations can come to the fore in the future---if the timing is right!
The reality of geo-politics is not lost on Shikama either. Even in his most diplomatic tone, he couldn’t help but be saddened by the conflicts around the world and the suffering it causes, “the ordinary people who live in conflict zones have not done anything wrong” he bluntly states. As a person operating a business that employs others, he can’t help but express the effect it has had on the cost of raw materials and product pricing, adding to the complexities of doing business globally. Shikama, though, is also unwavering in his commitment to a global future for the brand. “I will move my presentation overseas within the next few years. We are currently preparing for it” he says, not specifying if it will be Paris, Milan or another city but clear that “it’s an opportunity for a lot more people to see the brand. Brands and artists should always find spaces to grow and strive to create new fashion cultures because that is truly what our role is.” The streetwear market can certainly take some cues from Shikama’s prerogative, as most of them have been lacking the will to take risks and innovate, relying too often on tried and tested old ideas, and if there’s anything fashion despises, it’s a commercial repeat.
Can Hideaki Shikama save streetwear by taking risks and paving the path forward for other skateboard brands to follow? Only time will tell but we can be sure he will give it his best shot, with the same devotion through which he has been able to bring Children of the Discordance this far. As we wrap up the interview, we ask him about the what is new on the Tokyo creative scene, if there is someone who has impressed him recently. Shikama is quick to remind us not to get consumed in fashion only and engage in the amazing culinary scene of Tokyo – “I would love for you to experience other parts of culture as well.” Perhaps fashion and food collaborations can come to the fore in the future---if the timing is right!
Children of the Discordance is available globally at retailers such as SSENSE, 017, Maxfield, LN-CC, Nubian Tokyo amongst others.
View the Children of the Discordance SS25 Collection here.
The featured song from Minna-no-Kimochi can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djGlyTcW30Q